Passes of the Sierra Nevada along the PCT that we will cross
Timing
Water levels normally peak in late-May and June. But after wet winters and cool springs, they can be delayed until (or remain elevated into) July.
On a typically warm and sunny day, the creeks rise and fall considerably. They are highest in the early evening, swollen with an entire day of melt; and lowest in the morning, after a night of near-freezing temperatures.
Ideally, if there is a large river to cross and you can’t cross it after checking it out upstream (and downstream) you can camp beside it and then try and tackle it at dawn when the water would be its lightest since as the day goes by the melt will increase the flow and depth.
Northbound Passes Heading Through The Sierra:
A great PCT video from YouTube is from the Restless Kiwi. Here is part 3 below with the passes in the Sierras. She hiked in 2019 which was a high snow year.
Mulkey Pass & Trail Pass:
Mile marker 744.5 has an elevation of 10,392ft. Over this easier pass the PCT heads towards Horseshoe Meadow. At 745.3 you have Trail Pass which gives you Lone Pine access. Trail Pass is a common exit point from the PCT. To get to Lone Pine, go north to Horseshoe Meadow and then find a ride into Lone Pine from Last Chance Meadow Camp.
Cottonwood Pass: 11,132 ft
Cottonwood Pass also gives you access to Lone Pine. It’s at mile marker 750.2 and has an elevation of 11,132 ft. A trail heads east from Cottonwood Pass to Horseshow Meadow, which in turn provides road access to Lone Pine. Another trail leads to Big Whitney Meadow. At MM 754 you will hit the boundary that you are entering Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks which is the southernmost National Park that the PCT passes through.
Forester Pass: (Highest Point Along The PCT) 13,120 ft
Forester Pass is a notable pass on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), located in the Sierra Nevada mountain range of California. This also marks the boundary of Sequoia National Park (to the south) and Kings Canyon National Park to the north.
The final approach has a gradient of 13% for 0.9 of a mile as you zig-zag up the switchbacks heading up to the famous crossing just before the summit. Pretty scary for most crossing the ice chute. The approach climb is 623 ft.
The pass is named in honor of a group of Forest Service personnel who found the pass in 1929. It is the highest point on the PCT, with an elevation of 13,153 feet (4,009 meters). The pass is about 779 miles into the trail from the southern terminus at the Mexican border. It’s 77 miles North of Kennedy Meadows. The climb up to Forester Pass is steep and can be challenging, especially with snow and ice. Hikers should be prepared for potential weather changes and should carry the necessary gear for such conditions. Despite the challenges, the views from the top are stunning, and reaching the summit of Forester Pass is a significant accomplishment for PCT hikers.
Glen Pass: 11,950 ft
Glen Pass is another notable pass on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), located in the Sierra Nevada mountain range of California. It’s 11.6 miles North of Forester Pass. It is named after Glen H. Crow, a Forest Service Ranger. The pass is located at an elevation of 11,950 feet (3,651 meters) and is about 791 miles into the PCT. From the summit, hikers can see a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and valleys, including Rae Lakes and the Kings River Canyon to the north and the Palisade Basin to the south.
The final approach is 696 feet over 0.8 of a mile. with a steep gradient at 16.5%. One steep section to be careful and try to try and tackle early in the day. Rae Lake is on the other side and the trail passes Upper and Middle Rae Lakes. The lakes were named in 1906 for Rachel “Rae” Colby, wife of conservationist Willia E. Colby. The Ranger station is also on the other side at 793.8-mile marker.
Pinchot Pass: 12,106 ft
Pinchot Pass is another notable pass on the Pacific Crest Trail and is 16 miles from Glen Pass. Pinchot is a major pass. It’s steep and challenging. It is named after Gifford Pinchot, a conservationist and the first chief of the United States Forest Service. The pass is located at an elevation of 12,106 feet (3,690 meters) and is about 878 miles into the PCT from the southern terminus at the Mexican border. It’s 16 miles north from Glen Pass. The gradient is at 14.5% at the approach of the pass for the final half mile.
The climb up to Pinchot Pass can be strenuous, but the trail is well-maintained, and the views from the top are stunning. The pass is notable for its panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys, including the Middle Fork of the Kings River to the east and the South Fork of the San Joaquin River to the west.
Like many other passes along the PCT in the Sierra Nevada, Pinchot Pass can be challenging due to snow and ice, especially early in the hiking season. Hikers should be prepared for potential weather changes and should carry the necessary gear for such conditions. However, for those who are properly prepared and experienced, hiking over Pinchot Pass can be a highlight of their journey along the PCT.
Mather Pass: 12,100 ft
It is named after Stephen Mather, the first director of the National Park Service. The pass is located at an elevation of 12,100 feet (3,688 meters) and is about 816 miles into the PCT from the southern terminus at the Mexican border.
Ranks up there in fear-inducing due to the steep headwall on the south side of the pass. From the summit, hikers can see a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and valleys, including the Palisade Lakes and the Palisade Glacier to the south and the Upper Basin and the Golden Staircase to the north.
Muir Pass: 12,000 ft
It is named after John Muir, a naturalist and conservationist who played a significant role in the creation of Yosemite National Park and other protected areas. The pass is located at an elevation of 11,969 feet. Often cited as one of the most difficult passes on the trail due to the miles of snow fields you must cross in either direction to reach the summit.
One of the most iconic features of Muir Pass is the Muir Hut, a stone shelter built in 1930 that serves as a landmark and a popular place for hikers to take a break. The hut provides temporary shelter for hikers during inclement weather and serves as a landmark along the trail. It is not intended for overnight stays. Muir Pass is a high mountain pass that offers stunning views of the surrounding wilderness, and reaching it is a significant accomplishment for PCT and JMT hikers.
Down from this pass is Evolution Creek at mile marker 850.
Muir Trail Ranch is at mile marker 857.7. It’s a family-owned guest ranch just a mile and a half from the PCT. Popular for resupply. Before you climb the next pass which is Selden.
Selden Pass: 10,900 ft
It is located at an elevation of 10,900 feet (3,322 meters) and is about 865.6 miles. It’s 27 miles from Muir lake. It’s one of the easier passes.Heart lake is close to the top and on the other side of the pass is Marie lake. From the summit, hikers can see a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and valleys, including the Bear Creek Drainage to the east and the San Joaquin River Canyon to the west.
Heading down from Selden is Bear Creek, which is one of the widest river crossings on the trail. Along with Evolution Creek, Bear Creek is often cited as the most dangerous crossing, so be careful to not get knocked over due to the current.
Vermillion Valley Resort is next at 878.7. VVR has info on edisonlake.com about getting to and from PCT. Easy to resupply and get a hot meal. The first beer is free at VVR.
Silver Pass: 10,781 ft
19mi north of Seldon at 10,781 ft high at PCT Mile 884. Not a hard pass but as you get to the top it’s steep but not technical.
Island Pass: 10,226 ft
39mi north of Silver Pass at PCT mile 924 and it’s elevation is 10,226 ft. Not really a pass that you will think you are going over.
Donahue Pass: 11,073 ft
PCT mile 929 at 11,073 ft high. It’s 5 miles past Island Pass. Non technical pass with a long steady climb over it with a gradient at 14% at the last 0.6 of a mile before the summit. First part of the descent is moderate and the final part is steep.
Benson Pass: 10,108 ft
At PCT mile 966 and it’s 36 miles north of Donahue Pass. Non tech pass up a steady slope.
Seavey Pass: 9,131 ft
9 miles north of Benson at PCT ile 975. The final approach is 1529 ft over 3 miles and the gradient is at 10%. The elevation is 9,131 ft high. It’s not really reconizable as a pass but a steady slog towards it. Check the GPS to make sure you are on the pass since there is a false summit before it.
Dorothy Lake Pass: 9,528 ft
At PCT mile marker 997. It’s at 9,528 ft high. The pass follows the side of Dorthothy Lake and the pass is after the lake.
Sonora Pass: Elevation 9,620ft
This is the last pass of the southern section of the Sierras. After Sonora Pass you will now be hiking section J of the PCT in the California section.
River Crossings In The Sierra Nevada:
The Pacific Crest Trail in the Sierra Nevada has several dangerous river crossings, particularly during early summer when snow is melting. The most challenging are typically the South Fork of the Kings River and Evolution Creek. Both can have strong currents, deep pools, and ice-cold water even during warm weather. Other notable crossings include Bear Creek, Piute Creek, and Woods Creek. Hikers need to be cautious and prepared for these stream crossings by checking recent conditions reports from rangers or other hikers, crossing early in the day when water levels may be lower and wearing appropriate gear such as sturdy footwear for the bottom of the rivers and trekking poles for stability.
